I come from a mixed faith marriage, most people who know me know this about me already. (One of the first things you learn about people when you meet them in Lebanon is what faith they are). For most of my life, that was it; the story ended there. And that kind of attitude also translated into school where I never really cared about history because to me it was all about a bunch of names that I didn’t relate to anyway.

Come to find that my great grandfather (maternal side) was a Sheikh and a Shi’a scholar who establish one of the first printing presses in south Lebanon. He also founded Al-Irfan (a monthly review), opposed the French mandate, and was a reformist who fought for the rights of the underprivileged, including women’s rights. (There’s even a small Wikipedia article about him)

Had I known all of this from the beginning, I might have paid more attention in history class.

Now why am I sharing this? The other day, I walked into one of the bookshops just off Hamra main street. The bookshop had vintage publications on display and one of them was a copy of a 1962 edition of Al-Irfan..the publication my  great grandfather founded.

Al-Irfan (1962 Publication)

Al-Irfan, (the name comes from the Arabic word for knowledge) is

an Arabic-language monthly “Scientific, Historical, Literary and Sociological Review” that brought the world to the Shi’a community in Lebanon and farther afield to Iraq and Iran, and debated issues of concern to Shi’a and Arabs. The magazine was printed in Beirut for the first two years. In 1910 El-Zein commissioned his own printing press in Sidon where Al-Irfan was printed until the 1960s. The magazine was published 10 times a year until the death of the founder’s son, Nizar Al-Zein, in 1981. Afterwards, it was published quarterly until 1987 and then from 1992–1996.

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What I know of the history of the magazine is limited. What I know of the man behind the magazine – my great grandfather – is just as limited. What I do know is that the Zein house in Saida was where people came to have coffee and to discuss social affairs (that era’s version of a cafe) and that it fostered open mindedness, solidarity, and tolerance. Pretty impressive for that era: 1910 – 1960.

The interesting part is the way I found out about all of this. It wasn’t through the usual way where one of my parents (or grandparents) sat me down and told me about our family history. No, I found this out during one of the many random conversations I had with my aunt’s American husband in Virginia, probably sometime during either Thanksgiving or Xmas dinner, during my university days in the US. Afterwards, it took me many emails to try to get the information out of my mother or either one of her siblings. All I got was the little bit of information you see in the Wikipedia article, which was written by one of my mom’s cousins during her PhD years at AUB, and which was stored in film and was hard to recover. Unfortunately, there is no one I can ask who can clarify some of this information for me. Those with first hand information have since passed away, or aren’t able to communicate what they know. So, all of this to say, if you still have a grandparent who’s alive, have a heart to heart with them, you never know what you will find out about yourself..your history.

Lebanon’s history isn’t necessarily bright, but it is nice to know that that some parts of our culture is maintained, especially when we have been thought leaders and pioneers on some issues in the region and the rest of the world.

Other oldies

“If you don’t know [your family's] history, then you don’t know anything” – Michael Crichton

– Youssef

I told my co-founders and our interim board members to f*&k off (a big deal for an entrepreneur who poured everything into his startup for the past year), P. quit her job (a secure and well paying job), A. and M. risked being fired by spending work hours doing something else other than their work, Z. stacked up a phone bill of around a $1,000, and W. shifted the entire focus of his consultancy towards a non profitable project. These stories span the entire group of VOLUNTEERS that come from varied backgrounds (including different countries) who worked around the clock for days on end to bring to Lebanon an event of a different caliber.

TEDxBeirut, unlike other events, wasn’t about the speakers and the big names featured on the program. The theme for TEDxBeirut 2011 was “From Limitation to Inspiration.” What people outside of the TEDxBeirut organizing team didn’t realize is that the theme wasn’t as much a theme for the talks, as much as it was a theme for the journey the team went through. TEDx events (x = independently organized TED event) are special no matter where they are held in the world but in a country like Lebanon, organizing such an event comes with its own set of difficulties. Unless you are a well known group or company backed by some good contacts, getting past the paperwork alone is an overreaching goal. When Patsy thought out loud about organizing a TEDx event in Beirut, she was merely expressing a wish (maybe some event company would make it happen). Little did she know that she was going to be the one spearheading the effort to see her dream go from idea to reality. And this is why I say it was an event of a different caliber. It wasn’t the major players and usual suspects who were behind the event,  but it was, according to many attendee testimonials, one of the best organized and professional events that people in Beirut have ever experienced.

TEDxBeirut Team Members Hard at Work

Now why am I talking about an event that’s more than 3 months old? I promise you it will all come together at the end of this post. Bare with me as I take you through parts of the journey that will explain to you why if we ever talk about Lebanon I might say something along the lines of “I live in a different Lebanon than you do!”

What I experienced during the days leading up to TEDxBeirut was only a fraction of what some people went through before I had joined. But I got the opportunity on many occasions to sit back and take a distant view of the behavior of the team members. It’s important to mention the HUGE differences on all levels between the people involved. The interests, skills, personalities, backgrounds, education, all of it was different. A typical Lebanese blend, “makhlouta” as we say in Arabic (or mixed nuts would be the direct translation). But the situation was atypical. There was a common goal. No really, there was. The entire team was working on a single goal, with no personal interest at all. We were all volunteers. None of us was gaining anything from participating in this effort on a personal level. I saw people work their ass off, to put together a one day event in Lebanon, knowing that with the Lebanese mentality all they were going to get in return were complaints and criticism because the Lebanese are never pleased. It didn’t matter, we were doing something that we cared about, that we wanted to see happen and if others wanted to be part of it that would be great. Keep in mind, when Patsy started organizing the event, she meant it to be for about a hundred or so people, then bumped it up to 300, and bumped it up again to 800 to eventually get an 800 seated audience and about 200 other people sitting on the stairs in the theater or watching the stream in a different room (not to mention those who tuned in for the live stream on the web)!! Exposure, recognition, TV spots or seats in the parliament were never the objective.

Patsy, the Fearless Leader

I urge you to take a moment and let that last paragraph sink in. It might not impress you at first, you might think it’s weak, your reaction might be #meh. But take a moment to put it in perspective. We are talking about a “do it yourself” mentality coupled with a “do it FOR yourself, f*&k everyone else” attitude. I am an entrepreneur, I don’t mean to keep mentioning it just for the sake of rubbing it in, there’s a mindset at the root of it that’s important to understand. So much goes into planning an event to this caliber. It takes certain personality traits but also education and culture to foster such a mentality, which is not the case for most people in the world (especially Lebanese people). And not only is it not part of our upbringing, it’s also discouraged in favor of ‘secure’ jobs as most times we are taught that those who do such things are different, geniuses, basically not us. With TEDxBeirut, the group of individuals who participated broke that mold. They showed that ideas belong to everyone and the execution is as possible for the common person as it is for the likes of Bill Gates and Steve Jobs.

But it doesn’t stop just there and just for the TEDxBeirut team members. The event created a platform and an opportunity for other members of the community to follow suit. Donner Sang Compter (Give Blood/Without Counting, a play on words) is an initiative to promote blood donations in Lebanon in an organized and continuous manner and raise awareness about the importance of contributing. The story behind DSC is a very moving and inspirational one, and TEDxBeirut gave its founder Yorgui Teyrouz the opportunity to spread the word but also access to a network of people who are doers.

Yorgui During his Talk at TEDxBeirut

“The impact that TEDxBeirut had on this idea was inspirational! Straight after the talk, a queue of imaginers wanted to help bring the idea to life. At home my inbox was already loaded with signups, and the twitter and Facebook accounts with mentions and messages.”

The Lebanese community is a very capable group of people who unfortunately have been dormant and passive for many years. But all it takes is one person to get the ball rolling and action starts happening: “Together, we moved from one idea – Imagination Studio – to 22 brilliant ideas that can be actioned right now, right here, with the support of voluntary teams!”

Imagination Studio happened, and that wasn’t the end of things. An open call for volunteers took place for people to contribute in their own way and using their own expertise to solving a problem. After the call for ‘imaginers’ Joanna compiled a list of people interested in contributing along with the actionable ideas that need to be implemented. The effort is still in its beginnings. I am sure many of the skeptics out there who are used to bringing down others who are pushing for change will say that nothing will come out of Imagination Studio. There might be plenty of obstacles and many discouraging days, but what TEDxBeirut has shown a group of us is that the only obstacle between us and change is ourselves and our own doubt. Everything else can and will be overcome.

Imagination Studio Fun

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The TEDx movement is hard to explain, and hard to explain in terms of impact, or for the business people out there in therms of ROI. But it does have the IT factor that you do experience once you take part. No wonder there’s a book being written about it by an author who’s traveled to a dozen or so countries in 2011 and attended about 30 TEDx events and will attend double that number in 2012.

At the moment, the efforts might be on a small scale. But we have a blueprint for social change that can be the example and inspiration for others. One pretty well kept secret, which I’m sharing with you right now, is TEDxSKE. TEDxSKE is a weekly gathering where a bunch of us (not just TEDxBeirut team members) get together to watch TED and TED like talks (TEDxSKE is run by Patsy who is licensed by TED which is a requirement to run TEDx events, but any group can get together and do the same without using the TED name although the license is not hard to get). TEDxSKE was the precursor to TEDxBeirut and has grown since then. The activity changes from one week to the other, usually around a certain theme. It is not limited to TED talks alone, it could be any idea worth sharing. Of course, the evening doesn’t stop at the video/talk level. The highlight of these gatherings is usually the discussions or activities (games) that we participate in, in between talks. And the result varies from one person to the other. I can not claim to know the effect that TEDxSKE has on each and every one of us, not even on myself. As this is an on going thing, a process of growth for all of us. But I can tell you that I see the change in the others and they see it in themselves as well. Some of us are trying to find out who we are, why we are on this planet and what we are supposed to be doing. Others are looking to affect change. And some are, for the first time ever, getting exposed to alternate points of view. SKEers are discovering aspects of their own personalities that they did not know about themselves, broadening their horizon and challenging their beliefs. And trust me, this is not poetry or empty talk. This is paraphrased directly from the participants themselves. TEDxSKE is a collective of passionate and motivated people who are a support system for each other. Many of whom are or will be important pillars in the social entrepreneurship change in Lebanon in the coming years.

SKEers Participating in an Activity

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It might be a tad bit early to talk about results and accomplishments, but it is not too late nor too early to talk about inspiration or even a different kind of movement in a country that has not adopted the Tunisian or Egyptian model of the Arab Spring. So when you drive around Beirut (or walk like me) and you think about the potholes, the traffic and the corruption that Lebanon represents to you, remember that there is a Lebanon, which you are more than welcomed to be part of, where DSC and Imagination Studio are not just ideas and where Thursdays are for the spoken poetry and arts club (yes, such a thing exists, stay tuned for more details). It’s another kind of Lebanon which promotes action over wishful thinking, local change over change of country of residency. Just remember, be the change you want to see in the world.

What Inspires You?

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–Youssef

“Tomorrow We Will See offers a window into Lebanon’s flourishing creative culture through the perspective of ten Lebanese artists. In their own artistic ways, they have overcome decades of social and political instability and the uncertainties of what tomorrow may bring.

A common trait that unites the artists is their talent of using art as a tool for transcending sectarian divisions and encouraging freedom of thought.

A rock band’s thought-provoking lyrics, a poet’s description of time shrinking, an architect’s experimental manipulation of space, a novelist’s language of the female body, and a painter’s reflections on his choice of colors, reveal the process by which the featured artists transform ideas, sketches, spaces into vibrant and dynamic works of art.”

I can’t wait till this documentary comes out.

Watching the trailer brought tears to my eyes..something about it just tugged at my heart.

I looked up the filmmaker..and was interested to find that, “Soraya Umewaka is of Japanese-Lebanese descent, born in Tokyo; a graduate of Comparative Politics from Princeton University (2006) and a Noh actress (traditional Japanese theatre) who has performed at the National Noh Theatre since the age of 3. Through a lifetime of Noh training, she has attuned her observations of the nuances, symbolism and subtleties of expression found in the arts. Her cross-cultural documentaries are intimate personal portraits that unravel tales of the quest for happiness despite the pressure of various hardships, the uncertainties of tomorrow and a wide spectrum of socially constructed borders. Soraya’s works highlight the resilience and dignity of the human spirit in the face of adversity.”

Filmmaker Soraya Umewaka

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I can’t wait to see your film Soraya.

When a country operates on archaic laws that allow young girls (of ages as young as 12 and 13) to be ‘given away‘ to middle aged men for ‘marriage‘, there is no way to describe this phenomenon other than with the term SLAVERY. Not only is the girl forced into a marriage without her consent, the man (husband) is also protected BY LAW if he wishes to force himself on her in any way he pleases, including sexually. And whatever actions aren’t protected by the law, are kept under wraps by Lebanese society and its desire to maintain a certain image, at all costs.

Instead of confronting the situation in order to correct this disgusting behavior, Lebanese society turns a blind eye.. (“Lebanon is the greatest country on Earth! You can go to the beach and go skiing in the same day!“) What does this mean? This means that marital rape is legal. Let’s be clear about this. The fact that you are married to another person does by no means give you ‘carte blanche’ to do whatever you please to them. Some wedding vows might including the clause “fulfilling marital duties“, but that only signifies that each party involved in the marriage has the right and responsibility to carry out said duties, not, by any means, does it give license to any of the parties to force the other to comply. If a woman refuses to sexually please her husband, such vows give permission to END THE MARRIAGE, NOT TO ENGAGE IN MARITAL RAPE!

Why You Should Stand Against Sexual Violence

Unfortunately, it does not end here. A Lebanese woman, if she ever gets raped, will not only be met with silence (and shame) by society,..but in some cases, she will then be forced into marriage to her rapist (If she isn’t already married to him)! (You know, since when a woman loses her virginity she becomes ‘damaged goods’ unless she marries the person she lost her virginity to!) Even the proposal of marriage by the rapist can reduce the possible sentence to a year, and marriage would acquit him completely. (How this happens..how parents of young women allow this to happen,,is beyond me. But there are those that will do whatever necessary not to tarnish their name/reputation. Even if it means giving their daughter away to a rapist).

As Lebanese people, we have a moral duty have to do something about this. The first step is always awareness. As you can imagine, We need to raise our voice in support of our mothers and sisters. Let them know we are by their side. Show that no reputation or societal image is going to prevent us from showing things for what they are. Join the march to fight rape on January 14th 2012 at 12pm in front of the Ministry of Interior near Sanayeh.

The march is being hosted by Nasawiya, a feminist collective comprised of women and men who are working together to challenge all forms of gender oppression in Lebanon and the Arab world. For more information about the march please visit the facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/events/283385688373672/.

I will be there, will you?

-Youssef

“Look! I can read Arabic!….FALAFEL.”

Bahahhaha..

Just had to share this…

Happy Wednesday!

(Thanks for posting this on FB Ivy!)

Anyway,,without further ado, here we go!

Finding an apartment in Beirut

Danielle’s take:

This has to be the singlemost frequently asked question I receive from people considering moving to Beirut. It’s also one of the most difficult for me to answer. My first three months in Lebanon were spent at a friend’s home in Hazmieh (which is outside of Beirut). When I decided I wanted to get closer to Beirut, I spent weeks trying to find something online or on-foot, and that was WITH the help of a Lebanese friend (although his Arabic wasn’t that good – he had recently moved to Beirut from Montreal).. Everything that I thought was promising online, either demanded six months to a year’s rent up front, or just wasn’t what it professed to be (old, unfurnished, in an inconvenient area..etc etc..)..

Finding an apartment in Beirut is a mission and a half. Actually, it's two missions. Yep. two.

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Finally, I got so desperate that I moved into an ALL GIRLS DORM if you can believe it, called The Diva House (shameful, I know..) I paid $700 for a ROOM with a bed, a TV, a closet, and a toilet (at least it had daily maid service!). Even the kitchen was shared. (At the time, I was making $1100 a month..so, do the math. It sucked). One day, while I was at work, a friend of mind who went to AUB forwarded me an email from someone in her program looking for a roommate,,and that’s how I eventually came to find the bliss street apartment I lived in for nearly a year (A two bedroom place that went for $1000 a month $500 per person..still expensive versus what I was making, but a good price considering the size and central location).

So, yeah that’s my story. My advice to people looking to move to Beirut would be to check out websites like ahlein.net, realestate.com.lb, lebanon.dubizzle.com (thanks Bass B.) and even beirut.craigslist.org and to get a sense of what you’re dealing with size/furnishing/price wise. Chances are if you’re moving to Beirut, you already have a job or are attending a program that should be able to help you with finding accommodations, or at least point you in the right direction. Finding an apartment is REALLY difficult to do on your own. If you are like me,,and are winging it, it WILL take you time to find something that suits your preferences/price range..(that is, unless you’re balling out of control and money is no object for you.) So you will need to figure out a place (either a hotel or a private home) to stay in the mean time..If you are really adventurous,,you can try couch surfing while you look for a place!!  Either way, I STRONGLY advise having someone local help you/do the talking. Be advised: People WILL take advantage of the fact that you are a foreigner and will try to raise the rent on you.

As for ‘what part of Beirut should you move to’..I would suggest somewhere in Achrafieh, Monot, Gemmayze, or Hamra, Mar Mikhail..they are all relatively close to (or in the middle of ) all of the action..and easily accessible by foot. They’re also – in my humble opinion – the trendiest parts of the city. You could also consider Sodeco, Rawche, and Downtown (Although Rawche and Downtown are usually reserved for baller shot callers only).

Watched this video by BeirutNightLife to go on a nighttime tour of many of these areas..

* Pete of Beirut Beat suggests that you check out the Apartments in Beirut Facebook page..apparently it’s a good resource for finding places to live. Thanks Pete!

Youssef’s take:

Real estate in Lebanon is becoming ridiculously expensive and prices in Beirut especially are through the roof!! Most Lebanese families who still live in central locations in Beirut are holding on to old lease contracts that pre-date the civil war. This means that what these families pay for a year’s worth of rent, is what anyone else trying to find an apartment in Beirut now, would pay in just one month! (Ridiculous, I know.) This has forced many young people outside of Beirut for affordable rent..and by default has created a significant “commuter culture.”

Commuting to and from Beirut can be..pretty nightmarish..

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Some young families are settling in areas like Jnah, Dawhet el Hoss and even Dahieh where apartments are, contrary to popular belief, not cheap but many times cheaper than any of the new building coming up in Beirut (which are all sold out by the way, believe it or not).

Lebanese culture dictates that most young professional stay at home with their parents until marriage. Therefore, the demand for rooms/flats/apartment mates is limited to a small number of university students (and expats) coming from outside of Beirut and a handful of exceptional cases (like Danielle). Most individuals looking to share the cost of living tend to be foreigners and thus the supply is very, very limited – and the costs somewhat steep.

The best way to find a place to live in at an affordable rate is to look for student residences around AUB and LAU. Find yourself a local who knows the area (they’re easy to spot, it’s usually the one walking down the street saying hi to every shop owner he passes by), offer them a small compensation and go with them from building to building talking to the doormen to acquire about possible availabilities. (believe it or not I know a Lebanese person who hired someone to find places for her in Beirut, it really is hard to do otherwise..)

Driving/Taking Taxis

Youssef’s take:

Quite honestly, for the most part you do not need to drive in Beirut. And I am looking to start a movement that encourages people to walk more and drive less to places in the city. If you live within the 4 corners: Corniche el Mazraa, Downtown, Manara and Ramlet el Bayda, you can easily get to any place within that area in 20 to 30 minutes of walking. That includes areas like Sanayeh, Hamra, Bliss, Mar Elias and Verdun. Of course there are exceptions and certain situations that require the use of a car and for which the ‘service’ (discussed separately) is a good option. But the Lebanese need to stop taking their car to go from Hamra Main Street to Bliss Street and spend 30 minutes in traffic cursing, shouting and honking for no particular reason.

As for the ‘Service’, it may be one of the cheapest ways to commute in the world (LBP 2,000/USD 1.3 for a short trip anywhere in the city or LBP 4,000/USD 2.6 for longer trips but still within a reasonable range in Beirut and its suburbs). They are also the most common and dominant form of public transportation. They are similar to Colectivos found in Santiago, Chile or other parts of the world where you share a cab with other passengers for a fixed rate. Unlike the Colectivos though, the ‘service‘ does not run on a fixed, predetermined route. In the good ol’ days, the easiest way to spot a taxi was too look for an old Mercedes..or by the red license plate.. While you will still see these Mercedes on the road, there are also many other types of vehicles that operate as taxis.

Typical Lebanese taxi..red license plate..

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As of 2011, private taxis, ‘services‘ and any kind of public transport (which includes mini-vans, a story of its own) are required to have the official sticker on the car. So essentially, look for the red plates, and the stickers.

Official sticker.

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But not worry, hailing a cab in Lebanon requires zero effort – it’s a hospitable country after all! The driver will actually pull as close to you as possible, honk until your ears bleed, or you notice him (whichever happens first), at which point in time you’ll either yell out your destination, or wave your hand to attempt to get them to go away (they’re persistent, sometimes they’ll try to convince you to come in with them regardless).

Danielle’s take:

Driving in Lebanon. HA! Theses could be written on the subject. In all of the places I’ve traveled to, I have never seen anything quite like it. Anything. (It’s funny how every country you go to,,people always say, “If you can drive here you can drive anywhere.” I say..to hell with that. If you can drive in BEIRUT you can drive anywhere. Period. Full stop. Yeah.)

I mean, why would you even consider buying a car/driving when when you have cheap and relatively efficient public transport options? (That is, unless Daddy is willing to fork out to buy you a car..) Driving in Lebanon seriously forces you to employ all 5 senses, and maybe even your 6th. You see, buying a car was never an option for me. So I never even really considered it. I simply couldn’t afford it..(and from what I know, cars are very expensive because of import duties, etc etc). If that isn’t enough,, parking is ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS a problem..and although a lot of places do have valet service, it just seems to me that unless you are planning to move to Beirut for GOOD and build a family, etc etc etc..public transportation ie. services and private taxis are the way to go.. That being said, you should know that Lebanese people take pride in their cars. I’ve heard stories of young men who would spend all of their money on their cars rather than using the money to get out of their parent’s house and into their own place. Again, it’s all about image in Beirut..and I think that – especially for young men – that may have to do with the fact that many (not all, but many..yes, I know this is a generalization here people..) Lebanese women consider having a car, a prerequisite when determining whether to date a man or not.. But anyway,,I’m going off on a tangent. Back to the point.

I could sit here and describe what driving in Beirut is like (even though I haven’t experience it first hand, being a passenger and all), but that would take a year. or two. or ten. Instead, watch this video to get a sense of what it’s like. You only need to watch 45 seconds to get the point. You will notice that pedestrian right of way does NOT exist in Lebanon. Drivers don’t stop for the elderly, or for women with strollers..so chances are, they will not stop for you! Something I definitely had to learn the hard way.

So, yeah. I never drove in Lebanon and I never will. Ever..

Instead, I took ‘services‘ or private taxis wherever I went. And it worked out just fine for me.. When I first started this blog, I wrote a post detailing my first time taking a service and outlined the important differences between a ‘service‘ taxi and a private taxi service that every foreigner visiting/planning to move to Beirut should know..but as this post is already wayyy longer than I anticipated, I suggest you click the link if you really want to know more about it. However, Youssef and I updated the post to include some important information, which I will repost here, just to round off this section. So here goes it:

Danielle’s take:

Yep. You see, I had a break through yesterday..

I can’t let this blog go. I can’t let Beirut go. I can’t let Lebanon go.

Some things you just have to accept.

This is most definitely one of them.

Even though I moved to Trinidad and even started a new blog (I’m all over the place, I know. You don’t have to tell me)..I still feel like a part of me is missing – a big part. And since I can’t go back to Lebanon at the moment, keeping up with this blog seems like something I just have to do. I owe it to this blog, and I owe it to myself to continue what I started. I can’t walk away..at least not now.

So..yesterday, I got in touch with my trusted friend, and comment extraordinaire – Youssef Chaker – and together we decided that this blog deserves to be kept..well..alive. This blog is not ready to be relegated to the annals of history just yet.

So..yeah..Youssef. I reached out to Youssef for the first time when I realized that his comments on this blog were oftentimes longer than my posts! Without fail, he always took the time to add a layer of insight and perspective to things that I just.. couldn’t..or had simply overlooked..and at times, he even challenged me to ‘do more’ when I was clearly off my game. “You’ve set a high standard for yourself Danielle, and you have no choice but to maintain it.” He would say..and as you can imagine, we quickly became friends. So, when it came time to decide whether I wanted to ‘relaunch’ this blog or not, I immediately got in touch with Youssef.. and thankfully (and without hesitation), he agreed to co-author this blog with me!

Truth.

Youssef is back in Lebanon after a brief stint in Chile, and will be doing the ground work and most of the research.. I am in Trinidad (at the moment) and will be helping him to analyze, edit, and write about what we find that’s of interest..and together we will co-author This is Beirut! (I will also be blogging at This is Trinidad for those of you interested in life in the Caribbean..)

Excited? You better be. Like really. I know I am. And I’m pretty sure Youssef is too.

For those of you who want to know a bit more about how we arrived at this decision,, and about the new co-author Youssef, visit our recently updated bio page - NOUS.

Hope you’re ready..cause..

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Damn. It’s good to be back.

What do you think of my new header? I wonder how many more places I can fit on this map!

I know that many of you followed this blog because of its subject: the beautiful chaos that is Beirut. And I know that moving to the Caribbean means that I will lose some of you. But I sincerely hope that a few of you do decided to follow me on my new journey; for it’s my readers that keep me motivated to keep on going!

A big thank you to all of my readers out there. Whether you’ve followed me from the beginning, or just started reading, you have no idea how much you have enriched my life.

I hope to see you on the other side!

xoxo,

Dani

So, let’s get started, shall we?

What to pack

The first time I came to the party capital of the Middle East, I came with one mission, and one mission only: to party. And party I did. The nightlife reminded me so much of South Beach..the gorgeous people, the fashion, the sexiness..admittedly my first trip to Beirut was very one-sided and was a poor measure of what it was like to live there. But that’s obvious right? Vacationing somewhere is always different from living there. This couldn’t be MORE true in the case of Lebanon. Anyway, I digress.

My first night at Palais (It was Crystal back then..)

This is Beiruuuuuuut!

The second time I headed to Beirut, I packed for what was supposed to be a month long trip. Little did I know that one month would turn into a year and a half! But, let’s just say I packed mainly based on what my experience in Beirut was like the first time around..and hey, I’m from Miami,,so can you blame me? My suitcase was stuffed to the brim with wayyy too many going out outfits, high heels, and things that were very impractical (unless you are going to a bar/nightclub) by American standards. Now, as a woman, I must warn you that Lebanese women have a tendency to err on the side of fabulous – every day, all day. And while I like to play dress up, I like to reserve certain items of clothing for night time only. I can’t say the same for some Lebanese ladies out there!

At first, I felt like I could do what the Lebanese do. But when I moved to Hamra (for those of you who don’t know, think University neighborhood, lots of walking, uneven/slippery pavement, and taxis, etc etc) I quickly traded in my high heels for flats (and oftentimes sneakers..GASP! ), ..and my super fitted clothing for something a bit more free-flowing and comfortable. Hey, if you feel like you have what it takes to play Lebanese dress-up, more power to you..but if you’re anything like me..here is what I recommend you pack:

• Lots of comfortable , breathable clothes for the summer - Comfortable does NOT mean sloppy. The Lebanese are very image conscious people. Fashion, style, and beauty are woven into the very fabric of their society. Also, there are certain parts of the city where wearing “more” clothes is advised. (At least that’s how I felt at times. Bring a bit of everything, and always make sure to have a cardigan close by..as you get to know the neighborhood you’re living in, you will be able to gauge what’s appropriate and what’s not.) You should probably keep the daisy dukes and the micro mini skirts at home. From what I saw, jeans were the order of the day, even in summer. Keep this in mind when you’re packing. Oh and please,, leave the birkenstocks and jansport backpacks at HOME!
• Coats, jackets, sweaters, leggings, scarves, rainboots, and fashion boots for winter – It actually gets quite cold in Beirut! And really really really wet! Coming from Miami, I didn’t even pack a sweatshirt..so, needless to say, I ended up having to buy everything when I was there. Not fun..especially when you’re working on a Lebanese salary! So, bring winter clothes!! Ladies, Lebanese women LOVE LOVE LOVE their winter boots. If there is one thing I would recommend buying in Lebanon, it would be a pair of boots..they’re really stylish and uber chic. Fashion boutiques are everywhere in the city, you won’t be hardpressed to find one.

pack some rainboots!

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• Going out/partying attire – Ok,this really varies. You have every type of nightlife you could ever imagine in Beirut. Check out Beirut Nightlife for a full listing of all of the places to hit up in the city. If you’re going to a rooftop or club, you should know that bouncers are very discriminating. You have to look hot..South Beach hot..but always with class! Ladies, you know what that means..Fellas, button downs and dress shoes. always. If you’re more into the casual bar scene, you have plenty to choose from as well. If you’re going to Gemmayze, I’d say dress casual chic. In Hamra, anything goes. Hell, I’ve even gone to a bar straight from the gym. Fierce. I know. If you’re invited to a house party (or as some ppl call them, open house), or other semi-formal function I’d say (as a lady) to always wear heels. Some ppl might argue with me on this one,, but this is my experience!

I'd say to choose the heels! It's Beirut after all!

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• Multiple pairs of walking shoes, they will wear out with in 1-2 months - Unless you’re PAID and can afford to be chauffeured everywhere, you will be doing a whole hell of a lot of walking in Beirut. Stylish flats, fashion sneakers, workout sneakers are the way to go for everyday wear..In my opinion the shoe selection in Lebanon is pretty poor unless you can afford to buy from some of the local designers. The same goes for clothes  actually! Yes you have H&M, Vero Moda, Zara, and the like..but the price vs. quality ratio just doesn’t compute. I found that the clothes I bought in Lebanon washed, faded, or were completely destroyed after only a few washes. This probably has more to do with the quality of the water, and the fact that my washing machine was like 100 years old..but STILL! And at $30 or so dollars a shirt, you can see how this habit gets expensive. If money is not an object and you shop D&G, Versace, and Prada, disregard this last statement! You will find everything you could ever desire at Beirut Souks and/or Aishti)

Hamra main street. I must've walked up and down this street at least a million times.

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• Bathing suits, beachwear, sunglasses, sandals (Obviously! You’re on the Mediterranean bizznitches!) ladies, some wedge heels and nice summer dresses and rompers (altho i personally hate them) always work wonders too.. If you’re the poolside party type..it’s best to pack as if you were moving to Miami Beach..fabulous swimwear, coverups, and shades.) Keep in mind that there is no such thing as a free public beach in Beirut. If you want to get some sun, be prepared to spend around $25 just for entry for some version of the below (see pic). If you are really craving the beach, you will have to drive about 25-30 minutes outside of Beirut where you will find more “casual” (I guess that’s the right word) beaches..which you will stay have to pay to enter. (suxxx I know..having to pay for something that should be free.)

Riviera Beach Lounge in Beirut

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• Active wear – There is much more to Lebanon than drinking and partying..so make sure to pack some active wear as well!! There is a plethora of historical, cultural, and natural sights that you will have to visit during your time in Lebanon! Don’t go back home until you’ve seen the ancient ruins of Baalbeck, Anjaar, and Tyre as well as the Beiteddine palace, and Byblos – rumored to be the oldest inhabited city in the world (and my favorite!). You should also take a visit to Tripoli and go see the Cedars! And lastly, there are also a lot of groups that go hiking, like Vamos Todos. soo..pack accordingly!
• Medication  – this is a tricky one. I’ve heard some horror stories about pharmacies and pharmacists giving out wrong prescriptions in Beirut, and I’ve had some pretty uncomfortable experiences myself.  For those of you used to CVS, Walgreens and the like..you’re in for a rude awakening. You will need to get accustomed to asking the pharmacist for everything. A lot of the things that you can pick up off the shelf in the States, are actually behind the counter in Leb. And while I don’t want to be responsible for turning you off pharmacies altogether, I would suggest you try and get as many refills as possible prior to your move. orrrrrr at least until you find a doctor and pharmacy you can trust. Ladies/Gents..you should know that birth control is available without a prescription for around $15. Be safe my friends!
• Electronics – Apart from big ticket items (like laptops/ipods/ipads/digital cameras which I assume will be brought with you from home), I recommend buying everything electronic in Beirut. When charging your electronics, make sure to keep in mind that Lebanon runs on 220 voltage. I learned that the hard way when my blowdryer nearly burst into flames and my laptop screen began flickering!! For more information on voltage and plugs in Lebanon check out this site. Make sure to travel with a universal adapter just to be on the safe side. Also, keep in mind that unless you live in a building with a generator, power comes and goes every day, and sometimes, multiple times a day. As a measure of safety, I always unplugged all of my electronics before I left home. Also, if you lose your ipod or Mac charger, they are very easy to find in Beirut.

you don't want to be drying your hair with this..trust me!

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• Cellphones – Obviously, if you’re phone isn’t unlocked, you won’t be able to use it in Lebanon. Now, there are people who can unlock it for you, but I can’t guarantee that they know what they’re doing or that you’re phone will ever be the same. I came to Lebanon with an iPhone, but ended up buying a Blackberry since everyone and their mother is on bb. You can buy an unlocked Blackberry in Lebanon for around $100 if my memory serves me correctly..to me that’s the best bet. Also, for those of you who are used to fixed/postpaid lines, you will have to get accustom to buying prepaid phone cards in increments of $9 $12 or $21 from one of the two telecommunication providers in Lebanon, MTC or Alfa. (Getting a fixed line in Leb as a foreigner is very difficult, near to impossible from what I was told.) Cell phone stores are everywhere in Beirut..like every 5 steps everywhere. You can also buy phone cards from most supermarkets and corner stores..just ask the check out clerk for them. Telecommunication rates in Lebanon are among some of the highest in the world. You will be doing a lot more texting (or bbming) than talking while you’re in Beirut. #fact Ohhh, and how could I forget? You can also buy your phone number if you feel so inclined, like if you’re one of those guys who thinks having 69 in your phone number makes you sexy.. The numbers for sale will look something like this:

numbers for sale..

• Toiletries/Makeup/Hair products/Household items - you can get everything you need in Beirut.

I think that just about sums it up! I know that many of these things may seem a bit obvious, but judging from some of the emails I’ve received..you’d be surprised! If I’ve overlooked something or described something inaccurately, help a sista out! Leave it in the comments below..and look out for part 2 of the foreigners’ guide to moving to Beirut!

I’m so torn inside.

I can’t believe that my adventure in Beirut has come to an end..

But it has..for one reason or another..

I feel bad for not telling you sooner. You see, the truth is.. I’ve known that I wouldn’t be going back to Beirut for a while now. I suppose I just didn’t know how to tell you. Or maybe I was still in shock and didn’t really believe it myself? Who knows.

But the reality of the situation came down on me tonight because my return ticket to Beirut is booked for tomorrow..and I won’t be on that plane.

Goodbye Beirut

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I cannot even begin to describe how much this past year and a half has meant to me..it is really beyond words. Lebanon (and the Lebanese people) has forever changed me as a person, and I can only hope that I left a tiny mark somehow, somewhere on Lebanon.

And this blog…this BLOG!!! has been one of the most meaningful things I’ve ever done in my life! EVER. And I am so thankful to Lebanon for inspiring me, and to YOU my readers for following me on this incredible journey! Knowing that you were reading is what kept me going time and time again. And believe you me, there were times I thought about giving up.

This blog means the world to me.. and always will. Always.

Goodbye Beirut.

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Goodbye Beirut.

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Goodbye Beirut.

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Goodbye Beirut.

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Beirut I love and will miss you!

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As for my future plans..well, I haven’t decided whether I’m going to remain in Miami, or try living in Trinidad for the first time in my life. Both of my parents are from there, and although I’ve been visiting Trinidad since I was a baby, I’ve never lived there.

....

And as for this blog..

Well..

I still have a few posts up my sleeve and I’m going to try and keep ‘This is Beirut’ going for as long as the posts remain relevant. Once I decide where I’m going to be based, that’s when I’ll determine the fate of this blog.. I’m not ready to completely let it go just yet.

I think what hurts me most about all of this is that I didn’t get a chance to say a proper goodbye.. to Beirut..to Lebanon..to all of the really great friends that I made along the way. I hope you can forgive me for that. I will miss you all..especially all of the amazing Lebanese people who made my time in Lebanon THAT much more memorable! Thank you!